How to Start Collecting Militaria: A Beginner’s Guide

Why Collect Militaria?

Collecting military antiques — militaria — is one of the most rewarding and accessible hobbies available to anyone with an interest in history. Whether you are drawn to the gleaming brass of a Victorian cap badge, the weight of a World War I medal, or the craftsmanship of an Edwardian officer’s sword, militaria offers a direct, tangible connection to the past that books and photographs cannot match. Every piece has a story: who carried it, where they served, what they endured. Uncovering those stories is as much a part of the hobby as the acquisition itself. [1]

This guide is designed for the complete beginner — someone who is interested in starting a collection but is not sure where to begin, what to buy, what to avoid, or how much to spend. It covers the essential categories, practical buying advice, authentication basics, legal considerations, and resources to help you develop your knowledge and confidence.

Choosing Your Focus

The first and most important decision is what to collect. Militaria is an immensely broad field — you could spend a lifetime on any single sub-category. New collectors often make the mistake of buying anything vaguely military that catches their eye, ending up with a random assortment of unrelated items. The most successful and satisfying collections have a clear theme. [2]

Common Collecting Themes

Starting Points for Beginners

Some categories are particularly well-suited for new collectors:

• Cap badges: Affordable (many available for £5–£30), vast variety, well-documented in reference books, compact to display and store. Cap badges are the single most popular entry point into militaria collecting.
• Medals: Single campaign medals can be found for £30–£100. Named medals can be researched through service records and medal rolls, adding a personal dimension. Medal collecting is one of the deepest and most scholarly areas of the hobby.
• Buttons: Military buttons span over 200 years of British Army history and can be collected for very modest sums (£2–£15 for common types). They provide excellent practice in identification and authentication.
• Bayonets: Affordable (WWII spike bayonets from £20), visually impressive, well-documented, and legal to own in the UK without a licence.
• Postcards, photographs, and ephemera: Original military photographs, postcards, and documents offer social history at pocket-money prices. A genuine WWI soldier’s postcard might cost £3–£10. [1]

Where to Buy

Specialist Dealers

Established militaria dealers are the safest source for beginners. Reputable dealers provide accurate descriptions, fair prices, and return policies. They have reputations to protect and will stand behind their attributions. Expect to pay more than at a car boot sale, but you are paying for expertise and authenticity. [2]

Militaria Fairs

Regular militaria fairs are held across the UK and provide the opportunity to handle items, compare prices, and talk to dealers and collectors. Major fairs include:

• The London International Arms Fair (Kempton Park) — one of the largest in Europe
• OMRS (Orders and Medals Research Society) Convention — the premier medal collecting event
• Chelmsford Militaria Fair — long-established and well-attended
• Northern Military Collector Fair (Pudsey) — excellent for northern collectors
• Newark Antiques Fair — general antiques with significant militaria dealers

Fairs are also the best place to meet experienced collectors, join societies, and build the network of contacts that makes the hobby so enjoyable.

Online Sources

Online purchasing has transformed the accessibility of militaria. Key platforms include:

• Specialist dealer websites: Many established dealers maintain online shops with detailed descriptions and photographs.
• eBay: Enormous volume but requires careful buying. Be cautious of reproduction or fake items, poor descriptions, and inflated prices. Check seller feedback and ask questions before buying.
• Online forums: Communities like the Great War Forum, War Relics Forum, and British Medal Forum have “for sale” sections where knowledgeable collectors offer items.

Auction Houses

Specialist auction houses sell militaria ranging from budget lots to museum-quality pieces. Bidding at auction requires discipline — set a maximum price and stick to it. Major specialist auctioneers include:

• Dix Noonan Webb (DNW) — medals and orders
• Bosleys — medals and militaria
• C&T Auctioneers — uniforms, headgear, and general militaria
• Spink — medals, orders, and decorations
• Wallis & Wallis — edged weapons and firearms

Authentication Basics

Learning to distinguish genuine items from reproductions and fakes is the most important skill a collector can develop. Key principles: [1]

General Rules

• Handle as many genuine items as possible: Visit museums, attend fairs, and examine known-genuine pieces. Nothing substitutes for building familiarity with authentic items through hands-on experience.
• Weight and feel: Genuine items have a characteristic weight and “feel” that reproductions rarely match. Original brass badges have a different heft from cast copies. Original steel helmets feel different from pressed reproductions.
• Construction methods: Learn how items were manufactured in different periods. Victorian cap badges were die-struck; modern reproductions are often cast (showing pitting, softer detail, and visible seams). WWII webbing was machine-stitched with specific thread types and stitch patterns.
• Aging and patina: Genuine items show natural aging — patina on metals, wear on high points, fading on textiles, foxing on paper. Artificial aging (applied patina, chemical darkening, sandpaper wear) can usually be detected under magnification.
• Markings: Many items carry manufacturer marks, date stamps, size indicators, or military acceptance marks. Learn the correct markings for your area of interest. Incorrect or absent markings are red flags.

Common Fakes

Some categories are more heavily faked than others. Particular caution is needed with: [2]

• German Third Reich items: The most extensively faked area of militaria. Daggers, badges, and insignia are reproduced in enormous quantities, often to a very high standard.
• SS and elite unit insignia: Premium prices attract sophisticated fakes. Never buy expensive Nazi-era items without expert authentication.
• Rare cap badges: Some rare British cap badges are reproduced and artificially aged. Compare with reference books and known genuine examples.
• Named medals: Medals can be renamed (original naming erased and new details added) to create a more valuable attribution. Check naming style against known genuine examples for the period and issuing authority.

Research Resources

Research is the lifeblood of militaria collecting. Key resources: [1]

Reference Books

• British Battles and Medals by Joslin, Litherland & Simpkin — the essential medal reference
• Head-Dress Badges of the British Army by Kipling & King — the definitive cap badge reference
• British and Commonwealth Bayonets by Ian Skennerton — the standard bayonet reference
• British Military Uniforms by W.Y. Carman — classic uniform reference

Online Resources

• The National Archives (TNA): Military service records, medal rolls, unit war diaries
• Imperial War Museum (IWM): Collections database, photographs, and research facilities
• National Army Museum: Collections, exhibitions, and research library
• Ancestry.co.uk: Digitised service records, medal cards, and casualty lists
• Find My Past: Military records collection

Societies and Organisations

• OMRS (Orders and Medals Research Society): The premier medal collecting society, with a scholarly journal and annual convention
• Military Historical Society: Covers uniforms, badges, insignia, and equipment
• Regimental associations and museums: Most regiments maintain museums and associations that welcome collector enquiries

Legal Considerations (UK)

The legal position of collecting militaria in the UK is generally straightforward, but some areas require awareness: [2]

• Firearms: Any firearm capable of firing (or being converted to fire) requires a Firearms Certificate from the police. Antique firearms (pre-1939, obsolete calibre) may be held as “curiosities or ornaments” without a certificate, but the interpretation varies by police force. Deactivated firearms (rendered permanently incapable of firing) may be held without a licence.
• Bladed articles: Bayonets, swords, and knives may be legally owned and kept at home. Carrying them in public is illegal under the Criminal Justice Act 1988 (with limited exceptions for re-enactors, dealers, and cultural/religious purposes).
• Explosives and ammunition: Inert (completely empty) ammunition may be collected. Live ammunition requires a Firearms Certificate. Grenades, mines, and any item containing explosive material must not be retained.
• Export controls: Some items (particularly those over 50 years old and of significant cultural value) may require an export licence if being sold or shipped abroad.
• Ethical considerations: While collecting Third Reich and other politically sensitive material is legal in the UK, some items are illegal in other jurisdictions (e.g., Germany, France). Be aware of the legal position in the buyer’s country if selling internationally.

Practical Tips for New Collectors

• Set a budget: Decide what you can afford to spend each month and stick to it. The best collections are built slowly, one well-chosen piece at a time, not in expensive impulse purchases.
• Buy the best you can afford: One excellent piece is worth more — financially and in satisfaction — than ten mediocre ones.
• Keep records: Photograph every item, record where and when you bought it, what you paid, and any provenance or research notes. A well-documented collection is worth far more than an undocumented one.
• Network: Join societies, attend fairs, participate in online forums. The hobby is as much about the people as the objects.
• Be patient: The right piece at the right price will come along. Never buy under pressure or because a dealer says “it won’t last.”
• Handle everything: Touch, weigh, and examine items at every opportunity. Your hands and eyes are your best authentication tools. [1]

Militaria collecting is a hobby that combines history, detective work, craftsmanship, community, and the simple pleasure of holding an object that was once carried by a soldier who served their country. Start small, learn as you go, and enjoy the journey. The first badge or medal you buy will lead to a lifetime of discovery. [2]

Building Your First Collection: Practical Strategies

Defining Your Collecting Focus

The single most important decision a new collector makes is choosing a focus. Militaria is an immense field — attempting to collect “everything” leads to a shallow, incoherent accumulation rather than a meaningful collection. The most rewarding collections are those built around a clear theme that gives structure, purpose, and direction to your acquisitions. [1]

Consider these proven focusing strategies:

• Regimental collecting: Focus on a single regiment — ideally one with a personal connection (local regiment, ancestor’s unit, or simply a regiment whose history fascinates you). This is probably the most popular approach in British militaria collecting. A regimental collection might include cap badges, shoulder titles, buttons, medals, uniform items, photographs, documents, postcards, and regimental silver. The depth available is extraordinary: a collector of the Coldstream Guards, for example, could spend a lifetime assembling items spanning from the 1650s to the present day.
• Period collecting: Focus on a specific conflict or era — the Napoleonic Wars, the Crimea, the Boer War, the First or Second World War. This approach gives you breadth across different types of items and units, unified by a single historical period.
• Type collecting: Focus on a single category of item — cap badges, medals, bayonets, helmets, or edged weapons. Type collectors build deep expertise in their chosen category and can spot fakes, variants, and rarities that generalists miss.
• Named or attributed collecting: Focus on items attributable to specific individuals. This might mean researching medal groups, buying named uniforms, or assembling the “kit” of a single soldier from different sources. Named collecting combines material culture with genealogical and historical research — and a fully researched attributed item is always worth more than an anonymous one.

Your First Year: A Practical Roadmap

Here is a month-by-month roadmap for your first year as a militaria collector, designed to build knowledge systematically:

Months 1–3: Research before buying. Before spending anything significant, invest in knowledge. Join the relevant societies (Military Historical Society, Orders and Medals Research Society, or a specialist group for your chosen area). Read the standard reference books. Visit museums — the National Army Museum, the Imperial War Museum, and your local regimental museum are free or inexpensive and provide an opportunity to see genuine items in controlled conditions. Handle items wherever permitted — developing a “feel” for genuine items is one of the most important authentication skills. [1]

Months 3–6: Start buying carefully. Begin with modest, lower-priced items from established dealers. A genuine original cap badge (£5–£30), a general service medal (£20–£50), or a set of brass buttons (£10–£25) gives you real material to study without risking significant money on potential fakes. Buy from dealers who belong to OMRS, the Military Historical Society, or LAPADA (the Association of Art & Antiques Dealers) — membership implies adherence to codes of practice including honest description and a returns policy. [1]

Months 6–9: Attend fairs and auctions. The major militaria fairs (Aldershot, Malvern, Detling, Newark) and specialist auction houses (Dix Noonan Webb, Bosleys, Warwick & Warwick, Noonans) are essential parts of the collecting ecosystem. Fairs allow you to handle items, compare prices, and build relationships with dealers. Auctions — particularly the online platforms now offered by all the major houses — provide a transparent price mechanism and a rich source of quality items. Attend several fairs and viewings before buying — observation is itself an education. [1]

Months 9–12: Make your first significant purchase. By now you should have sufficient knowledge to assess quality, authenticity, and fair pricing. Make a considered purchase of a significant item — perhaps a named medal group with research potential, a key badge for your collection, or a uniform item in excellent condition. This purchase should reflect everything you’ve learned in the preceding months. [1]

Online Buying: Opportunities and Risks

The internet has transformed militaria collecting, providing access to items from around the world but also creating new risks. Key platforms include:

• eBay: The largest marketplace for militaria, with thousands of items listed at any time. eBay offers both opportunity and risk — genuine bargains are found alongside outright fakes and items that are not as described. Use eBay’s buyer protection, insist on detailed photographs, and be very cautious of sellers with limited feedback or vague descriptions. If a price seems too good to be true, it almost certainly is.
• Specialist auction houses: All major militaria auction houses now offer online bidding. These provide expert cataloguing, honest descriptions, and a returns policy for items that prove to be misdescribed. The buyer’s premium (typically 20–25% plus VAT) should be factored into your bidding.
• Specialist forums and groups: Online communities such as the Great War Forum, War Relics Forum, and various Facebook groups dedicated to specific collecting areas provide marketplaces, advice, and authentication assistance. Building a reputation in these communities as a knowledgeable and honest participant opens doors to private sales and first-refusal opportunities.
• Dealer websites: Many established dealers maintain online shops with photographed stock. Buying from a reputable dealer’s website provides the assurance of expert description and a returns policy.

Record-Keeping and Documentation

From the very first purchase, maintain a systematic record of your collection. For each item, document:

• Description and identification (pattern, date, maker, unit if known)
• Condition notes and photographs (front, back, close-ups of markings and any damage)
• Purchase date, source, and price paid
• Current estimated value (updated periodically)
• Provenance — any known history, documentation, or associations
• Research notes — what you’ve discovered about the item or its context

This record serves three purposes: it documents your collection for insurance, it provides a research resource that grows in value over time, and it tracks market values to help you make informed buying decisions. A simple spreadsheet or database works well; dedicated collection-management software is available but not essential. Back up digital records and store copies off-site. [1]